Lee's picture

Wave behavior

4
loves

Thursday December 6, 2007:  Today I read about the humongous waves I experienced yesterday (see Offshore crush below).  They actually started out as swells several days before ~ hundreds of miles out to sea. Somewhere between Hawaii and California; they got amp’d. Tuesday they started slamming into Mavericks (a beach near San Francisco) at a height of around 50 feet.  From there they traveled south ~ mellowing a bit ~ and managed to slip in-between the Channel Islands (which usually serve as a break water for Santa Barbara) ~ where they hit Rincon at just over 20 feet ~ which is cool if you were at Rincon ~ because there’s a rocky point where the waves peel off ~ creating a nice side-ways barrel ride.  That was not the case where I was, however ~ at Hammonds they were ‘beach break’ ~ which means skull crushing waves that crash all at once ~ offering no chance of escape.

California coastal zone geography ocean currents
Lee – December 8, 2007 – 6:53pm

Glad you are safe Lee....I wonder if that is why the beaches in Carmel  were closed-my sister was telling me....

AnjelaM – December 8, 2007 – 7:30pm

That is why the beaches here were closed. A well known local big wave surfer died at a break called Ghost Tree near Pebble Beach. We had good 25 foot faces coming on shore here... The power of big waves is humbling and awesome...

steven harper – December 8, 2007 – 8:10pm

..is how I refer to them as well ..wow, 25 feet ..I wonder what that sounded like in the baths.

Lee – December 11, 2007 – 8:45pm

..for being glad. That's definitely why the beaches were closed in Carmel

Lee – December 11, 2007 – 8:47pm

..as Steven points out in the very next comment. 

Lee – December 11, 2007 – 8:49pm