Thursday December 6, 2007: Today I read about the humongous waves I experienced yesterday (see Offshore crush below). They actually started out as swells several days before ~ hundreds of miles out to sea. Somewhere between Hawaii and California; they got amp’d. Tuesday they started slamming into Mavericks (a beach near San Francisco) at a height of around 50 feet. From there they traveled south ~ mellowing a bit ~ and managed to slip in-between the Channel Islands (which usually serve as a break water for Santa Barbara) ~ where they hit Rincon at just over 20 feet ~ which is cool if you were at Rincon ~ because there’s a rocky point where the waves peel off ~ creating a nice side-ways barrel ride. That was not the case where I was, however ~ at Hammonds they were ‘beach break’ ~ which means skull crushing waves that crash all at once ~ offering no chance of escape.
California coastal zone geography ocean currentsGlad you are safe Lee....I wonder if that is why the beaches in Carmel were closed-my sister was telling me....
That is why the beaches here were closed. A well known local big wave surfer died at a break called Ghost Tree near Pebble Beach. We had good 25 foot faces coming on shore here... The power of big waves is humbling and awesome...
..is how I refer to them as well ..wow, 25 feet ..I wonder what that sounded like in the baths.
..for being glad. That's definitely why the beaches were closed in Carmel



Wow...